Tuesday, 25 March 2014

Choosing A Wood Lathe: What To Look For When Sturdy Counts


While it is obvious that wood lathes spin wood around, it is not always obvious to the first time buyer that spinning wood, if out of balance, vibrates tremendously. In addition, wood lathes may be asked to spin very heavy sections of wood and need to be able to withstand considerable force. There are a couple of simple things to look for to ensure that a lathe is sturdy enough for the work at hand.
If you have a small shop and intend to turn small objects, it may seem as if sturdiness will not be a factor, but this is simply not so. Most small lathes turn at high speeds and have a very high minimum speed. Just as on a car, an unbalanced wheel does not seem a problem at low speeds but vibrates at high ones, the same thing happens on a lathe with unbalanced wood or with unbalanced lathe parts. While a small piece on a small lathe may not try to walk across the floor, vibration encourages poor cuts and difficulty in a good finish.
Larger lathes tend to have lower minimum speeds and thus allow for less vibration in unbalanced pieces. However they also are generally bought with the purpose of handling larger pieces of wood and thus more weight. A bowl blank of forty pounds is not unusual on a lathe with a twelve to sixteen inch swing and can literally walk a light lathe across the floor of the shop.
The solution to the problem is to have a lathe sturdy enough to handle the work. It starts with a good foundation such as a stand that is well made and heavy enough to not move under the forces of turning. Sand is a good vibration absorber and many turners design their lathe stands to hold hundred of pounds of sand.
The lathe itself should have lots of cast iron and steel in its construction. Stamped metal parts tend to give little support. Good welds should be looked for. Check with your wood turning friends and find out what lathes they use for the type of turning you intend to do and then find out if they are satisfied. Good bearings are a must and even more important are the bearing housings. Bearings are easily replaced but not where they live in the lathe.
One of the best tests of sturdiness is common sense when looking at the lathe. If it looks solid it likely is. This would not be just a cataloger look but rather a chance to stand at it and see if the steel is substantial and the iron castings are solid and well finished. The mechanisms to hold the head stock  tail stock and tool rest should be strong and lock firmly. Speed controls should move easily and switches readily accessible.
The final test of the lathe will happen as you turn on it. Many turners will push the envelope of size and speed and safety is each individual's responsibility but much of it can be ensured with good planning and a little foresight.
Darrell Felt mate is a juridic wood turner whose web site, Around the Woods, contains detailed information about wood turning for the novice or experienced turner as well as a collection of turnings for your viewing pleasure. You too can learn to turn wood, here is the place to start. Wondering what it looks like? There are many free videos on the site dealing with everything from sharpening to making a bowl. 
To get an introduction to the various parts of a wood lathe and to look at four different types

Cheap Wood Lathes


There are a lot of reasons why investing in an expensive, high quality wood lathe is a good idea.
There are a number of benefits to moving up in price and quality range. You will get a larger lathe, which allows much more freedom and variety in the projects you can do and the pieces you can make and large lathes are heavier which reduces vibration. You will get better finish and machining, parts will be better aligned and the overall product will be much nicer.
Lathes are one area where you can still buy a tool that will last for years, or even decades. They are fairly simple devices, and solidly built, in general from cast iron.
So why would anyone ever invest in a cheap lathe?
Well there are several reasons you might consider a cheaper model of wood lathe. Some of them are good, others not so much, but it's a valid idea in any case.
The number one situation I think someone should invest in an inexpensive lathe is if they are a beginner. If you don't have a lot of experience buying a large expensive wood lathe could end up being a costly mistake.
I know a lot of people who go into things all gunge ho only to lose interest shortly afterward. In my opinion if you don't have a lot of experience you should consider investing in a a small inexpensive wood lathe initially, and consider it a starter that you will upgrade in a few years.
Another good reason to buy a cheap lathe is as a complement to a larger tool. If you already have a large wood lathe it could be useful, to have a smaller one for detail work, or small projects such as pen turning or lure making. Not all small lathes are created equal however, and some of them can be just as expensive as larger models.
A third reason for a smaller cheaper lathe is simply to save space, some people don't have a lot of room in their shops, or even a dedicated shop at all, and it wouldn't make very much to put a full sized lathe in your living room.
There are some decent lathes out there in the 300-400 dollar range, and even a few passable ones around 150 dollars, but I personally wouldn't go lower than that, or you risk getting a complete dud.
You can find a good list of cheap wood lathes along with prices and specs at Wood Lathes Online.

Making a Pen with Your New Wood Lathe


So you just purchased a wood lathe but do not know what kind of project you should start out with. As soon as the right amount of skill is obtained, beautiful pieces of woodwork can be created with a wood lathe. However, before you get too over your head, it is best to start out with a basic woodturning project. My recommendation would be beginning by carving your very own pen.
Pen turning is a common hobby or past time. These homemade pens can make excellent gifts for any event. Pen turning is a fun yet practical project that can help you get a taste of the capabilities of your wood lathe. The following are some tips in preparing your wood for the lathe that will help you make your first wood lathe experience successful.
1. Pick an interesting wood blank. One of the great things 
about pen turning is you can use any sort of wood you want, including scrap pieces from other projects. Pick out a piece of wood with interesting figuring. Be aware that some wood changes appearance with light and air exposure and will begin to look dull with time, such as Paduak or Purple Heart wood. If you are not comfortable using a scrap piece of wood there are numerous wood blanks that can be purchased in all sorts of exotic woods.

2. Examine your wood. It is very important that you examine the wood you are using for your pen project. Make sure that your wood is dry and without faults or cracks. Damp and cracked wood will make for a lousy pen, if you can even make one out of that type of wood at all.
3. It is better to be oversized than undersized. If you have to choose between an oversized wood blank and an undersized blank, always choose the oversized one. This will give you some leeway just in case you make a mistake.
4. Have an idea. As with everything else in life, your pen will turn out better if you have an idea on what you want to create before you start. Decide before using the wood lathe on what type of shape you want your pen to be.
5. Mark the wood blank before you cut. It is nice to put a pencil mark across the grain of the wood before you start. This will make it easier to match up the grain pattern after you cut the wood blank.
6. Make sure your ends are square. If the ends of your wood blank are not perfectly square before using the wood lathe, there will be possibilities of cracking when the pen is assembled.
7. The smaller wood lathe the better. This tip is really just meant to make your life easier. Any wood lathe is suitable for pen turning; however, the smaller the wood lathe the easier your job is.
8. Keep it simple the first couple of times. It is tempting to want to do some fun and intricate pen shapes the first couple of times but stick to the basics until you figure out just exactly what it is you are doing.
A pen is an easy project that can help you with the beginning possibilities of your new wood lathe. After you conquer creating your own pen, there are several other projects to start with such as table and chair legs, wooden bowls, wooden hammers, candle sticks, or even pieces to a chess set. Just remember to begin with a simple project with your wood lathe to get use to your new tool before attempting more difficult projects.

Wood Lathe Safety: Keep Your Lathe In Good Condition


Power tools such as table saws and wood lathes are inherently dangerous although the wood lathe is likely one the safest of the larger power tools in the woodworking shop. Yet there are some considerations in the maintenance of a wood lathe that keep safety standards high.
Maintenance for the wood lathe may be channeled into three categories, long term, regular and steady. For the amateur wood turner this can for all intents and purposes be thought of as yearly, monthly, and by the session. With a little thought and preparation, this need not be a tedious set of procedures but simply a part of the wood turning experience. Too often we ignore the bigger parts of a lathe until they break. This causes frustration an interruption in work flow that may last for weeks waiting for parts.
Yearly maintenance looks at the overall health of the lathe. Wood lathes rotate wood between head stocks and tail stocks while allowing the turner to move tools back and forth to remove wood. This means there are bearings for things that rotate, motors that drive the rotations, belts to move power from one location to another, and metal sliding on metal to allow tools to move.
The simplest of these to check is the sliding of tools rests and tailstocks over the ways of a lathe to manoeuvre tools and hold wood. If there is hesitation in the movement of either it is usually due to rust on the ways or finishes that have hardened on the metal. Remove the tailstock and the tool rest banjo from the lathe and check for either on the bottom of each. Clean rust and finish from the ways, banjo and tailstock with fine sandpaper, steel wool or cleaner and apply wax to the ways for easier movement and rust prevention before replacing the tailstock and banjo.
Check belts for wear and replace them from spare belts that you have on hand. Belts tend to be the inexpensive side of lathe repair and it is good to have a spare one in the shop. Likewise, bearing will likely announce incipient wear with noise or movement and should be ordered before demanding replacement. Each lathe is slightly different for bearing replacement so follow your manufacturers advice.
At least monthly blow any dust out of the motor and inspect the wiring for good repair. Mounting bolts can loosen with vibration from turning wood and should be checked for tightness. This is a good time to look at belts and bearings for wear and to order new ones for the annual checkup.
Before every turning session make sure that the lathe is not crowded with other tools and there is plenty of room to move around it while turning. Be sure all tools are sharp and the sharpening station is ready to go with a cleaned wheel. Just before turning the lathe on check one more time to be certain the moving wood will clear the tool rest and all parts of the lathe are tightened down.
Very quickly this all becomes second nature and adds to the enjoyment of turning wood. The satisfaction of knowing the tools are in order will only add to the satisfaction and pleasure of the wood turning experience.
Darrell Felt mate is a juries wood turner whose web site, Around the Woods, contains detailed information about wood turning for the novice or experienced turner as well as a collection of turnings for your viewing pleasure. You too can learn to turn wood, here is the place to start. Wondering what it looks like? There are many free videos on the site dealing with everything from sharpening to making a bowl.

Wood Lathe Tools


High quality wood lathe tools equate to higher quality projects if the operator is efficient and well trained. Wood turning is an art and craft that many use to soothe their nerves or to create beautiful wooden objects. An integral part of the lathe is the wood lathe tool rest that can be re positioned as the project becomes smaller.
Wood turning tools can be purchased easily, but the quality of the cutting tool will make a huge difference in the outcome of any lathe project. A lathe cutting tool that is made of high quality steel will create wonderful results. But if the lathe operator does not know how to properly sharpen them, they will not cut properly; costing the operator much more time to bring the wood to final shape.
Lathe tools come in various sizes and many shapes and gives the operator the perfect angle to turn wood while working in many different angles. There are so many different shapes to the cutting tool that it can be overly confusing to a novice. It is advisable to learn the lathe and tool sharpening techniques by a trained professional. they can teach you so many different methods and tricks by using their own experiences.
Wood turning professionals and instructors can teach you how to sharpen wood turning tools, which is an element that some novice turners never consider important. But if you have ever tried cutting a piece of wood with a butter knife, you will understand how critical the art of sharpening wood lathe tools can be.

Wood turning Finishing Techniques



Introduction

One of the most difficult woodworking tasks for beginners is finishing. There is a bewildering array of finishing products available to woodworkers today but comparative product information is hard to come by. All finishes have certain strengths and weakness when compared to each other. An excellent reference on this subject is Understanding Wood Finishes by Bob Flexner and I highly recommend it.

This article is an attempt to provide you with a few easy finishing procedures to follow and to explain the differences between types of finishes. Instead of an all-encompassing review, these procedures are written expressly for woodworks with little experience at finishing. By following these simple steps, one should be able to achieve a very nice finish on almost any woodworking project.

General Advise

The first procedure of a good finish starts with surface preparation. Sand, scrape, or plane the surface until the surface is free of defects and uniform. The amount of sanding and the grit of sandpaper used can have a significant impact upon the way "stain" will appear on a wood surface. The wood surface should be evenly sanded to a 150 or 220 grit uniform surface. Take care to remove all glue marks and scratches, common stains will highlight these defects. If you have not done much staining you should experiment before applying any stain to your project.

When applying several coats of a film type finish, it is best to apply the gloss version of the product as a base even when a satin sheen is desired as the end product. The satin sheen products contain particles in them to defract light. Many layers of these defractors may make a finish look muddy compared to a finish built up with clearer products.

When sanding the finish between coats, sandpaper is used to remove any large irregularities and to make the finish level. Scotch pads or synthetic steel wool is used afterwards to more uniformly abrade the surface and obscure any scratches made by the sandpaper and to provide a better surface for the following finish layer. As the finish is built up into a more level surface, the grit number of the abrasives used between coats is increased.

It is not a necessity that you use the same finish technique or product on the entire project. For example, assume you chose Danish oil as the primary finish for a chest of drawers. You may use polyurethane or acrylic for the drawer boxes, interior parts, or the applied back. This would save a great deal of time and effort.

Do not apply any stains or finishes in direct sunlight.

If the finish has not dried thoroughly it will ball up or make "corns" on the sandpaper. If this is the case, allow the finish to dry more, continuing to sand and applying more finish on top may degrade the overall finish quality.

One technique I always use is to make a sample board out of cutoffs from the project. With this sample piece I can test different stains and finishes to see how the project will appear when complete. It is also used to test any finishing technique deviations before applying them to the project.

Be sure to read and follow the safety precautions listed on the product container.

Definition of terms:

Polyurethane Refers to oil based products only.

Sheen Surface reflection characteristic, either gloss, semi-gloss, or satin.

Smooth Surface texture, smooth does not mean gloss.

Water Based Refers to water based polyurethane and similar water based products

wood lathe - Danish Oil



Pros Smoothest most easily obtained "perfect" finish.

Easy to repair.

Cons Not as durable as film finishes.

Finish may require periodic maintenance.

Procedure requires lots of elbow grease.

Should not be applied over common pigment or gel stains.

Procedure:

Danish oil is considered to be a penetrating oil type finish. In actuality, the oil does not penetrate very deeply, just a little deeper than typical film finishes. When using this type of finish, there is no need to sand the wood surface with anything higher than 180 or 220 grit sandpaper prior to finishing. In order for this finish to work properly it must be able to penetrate into the wood. It will not be able to do so if you have stained it with the commonly available pigment or gel stains. If you wish to stain the surface you can use a water based dye applied first or use a tinted Danish oil.

This finish is one that even an amateur can apply and achieve excellent results if the proper steps are followed. There are several procedures that are similar to the one outlined below, any of them will work, this is a simplified version. I use Deft Danish oil but the procedure should be the same for all "Danish oils".

1. Even if you wish to use this product as a stain as well as a finish, apply the "natural" color of the product to end grain areas first then the colored version. This will keep the end grain from looking darker than the rest of the surfaces. Apply a very wet coat to all surfaces, allow the oil to stand on the surface for about 30 minutes, apply more to any areas that become dry during this time period. After 30 minutes or if the oil starts to become a little "tacky", wipe it all off.

2. Immediately apply another wet coat of oil to the surface, allow to stand for about 15 minutes or until it starts to become tacky. Wipe all oil off of the surface. The surface will "bleed", or seep oil onto the surface for a few hours after application. You do not want this bleeding oil to harden so wipe the surface down every half hour or so. Open pore woods like oak will bleed more than woods such as maple. Note, the more vigorously you wipe the oil off, the more it will bleed, heat causes this.

3. From now on, you should apply the finish every other day. You may continue to use the tinted version of the product or switch to the natural colored oil at this point. From this point onwards, the oil will be applied with sandpaper. Start with 320 or 400 grit black sandpaper and wet sand the surface using the oil as a lubricant, This will work the oil into the surface and smooth the surface as well. You must wipe all of the excess oil from the surface before it becomes tacky during each application. Continue this operation every other day, switching to a finer grit of sandpaper each time. You can keep this up a long time but the benefits start to diminish after 600 grit.

4. After you have applied all of the oil you want, you may now apply either a coat of lemon oil or solvent wax (Watco) using the sandpaper method. This will become the final finish. As an alternative, you could use a paste wax wiped on with a rag and buffed out. The preferred wax to use will be colored to avoid any white spots.

5.About every year or two, you may wish to apply a coat of the natural finish oil and / or wax to the surface to restore it's sheen